

Shit, we both thought silently, we are going to die on this trip.
Once we got out of the city, however, we pretty much had the highway to ourselves. Still, it took me all of the four days on the road to learn to not turn on the wipers when signaling a turn. Nothing makes a driver look more like an asshole -- or an idiot -- than passing without a turn signal, with the wipers scraping furiously back and forth across a dry windshield when it's a perfectly clear day out.



We made it into town right before dusk, but despite Quorn being the largest and most populated town within a 200km radius of Flinders Ranges, there was nothing to do there except sit and pick at one's toes. None of the stores were open and we barely managed to buy some food from the grocery store before it closed. Luckily, Indhu and I weren't the only ones staying at the hostel. We befriended three girls from Adelaide who had skipped out on a couple of days of school to roadtrip up to Flinders for the weekend. The hostel owner made a bonfire out in the backyard for us and the five of us spent the evening sitting around the fire and chatting while one of the girls strummed her guitar.
The next day, Indhu and I drove nearly six hours from Quorn up north to Coober Pedy (an aboriginal name for "white man in a hole" -- how awesome is that), a small, bizarre, dodgy opal mining town in the middle of nowhere. We got there exhausted, and when we saw the town, all I could say was, "That's it? This is what we drove all this way for?" There was nothing around except for huge mounds of dug up dirt everywhere and wandering packs of dogs. You can easily drive through the entire town in less than a minute. The cool thing about Coober Pedy though is that because it gets so hot during the summer months, a lot of buildings are underground including houses, restaurants, churches, and shops. We spent about an hour and a half checking out different underground sights before we exhausted most of the free stuff.
For Indhu, the novelty of underground buildings wore out pretty quickly. I think it might have dissipated even before we arrived. So we checked Coober Pedy off our to-do list, got back into the car, and drove back down south and made it to the town of Glendambo before it got dark. Apparently, "town" was just another word for "gas station." Adjacent to the BP, the rest of this town consisted of a caravan park and pub. Oh, and a windmill and public telephone.
Indhu and I paid $15 to stay at the caravan park only to end up sleeping in the car because the ground was too hard for the tent stakes and I was convinced that sleeping in the car would be more comfortable. (I was wrong.)
Again, we didn't have much with which to entertain ourselves after it got dark, so we turned the car into a photo studio and what came of it should not be made public.
The next morning we set out for our drive back to Adelaide. And here is where the real fun began.
Indhu: "Should we get gas before we leave?"
Me: "How much gas is in the tank?"
Indhu: "Right below the half way mark."
Me: "We can make it to the next gas station before we need to fill again."
Indhu: "Okay."
Indhu drove for about an hour when we came across the first gas station. We didn't stop and a short while later, Indhu suddenly says, "Shit. We have a quarter tank of gas left." I pulled out a map and checked where we were. My heart skipped a beat. There were no gas stations for another 170km until Port Augusta. When I broke the news to Indhu, she looked like she was going to throw up all over the dashboard.
Indhu: Fuck.
Me: Should we turn around and go back to Pimba?
Indhu: I don't know.
We kept driving. After a few minutes, I asked Indhu if she was okay. She removed her hand from her mouth and after a brief moment of silence croaked, "Oh god, I need to poop."
Me:(While suppressing a fit of laughter) There's no time for pooping right now.
Indhu: I get like this every time I'm nervous.
Me: Pull yourself together!
Indhu: Oh gawwwd.
(Indhu, if you ever read this, I'm sorry. It was too funny to not share.)
I rechecked the map and then we started to try to convert liters into gallons and kilometers into miles because neither of us could think in a different metric system and gauge whether we could make it to Port Augusta before the tank went empty.
Me: We have a 41-lite tank. So we have to go 170km on about 10 liters of gas.
Indhu: I know that there are 32 ounces in a liter!
Me: Hmm.... Okay. So how is that going to help us exactly?
Indhu: I don't know.
Me: Right.
We had already passed the point of no return, so we slowed down to a crawl to conserve gas and sat in nervous silence. I was still peppy enough to take some photos from the car. There wasn't much else we could do so I might as well have used the opportunity to get some good pictures of the Outback. Afterall, what was the worse that could happen right? (Er, Wolf Creek, anyone? I heard about this "true story" after we got back to Adelaide.)
After an hour, the empty light came on. Road signs indicated that we were still over half an hour away from our destination. My palms started to sweat and Indhu basically looked like she had stopped breathing. When we finally rolled into the first gas station in Port Augusta, we cheered. I got out to fill the tank and when the handle of the nozzle clicked off, the meter clocked in at 40.56 liters. With less than half a liter of gas left in the tank, we had just barely made it. Pretty exciting, no?
Trip summary:Kilometers traveled: 1085
Hours drove: 20+
Live lizards encountered on the road: 7
Lizards that did not survive the encounter: 3
Other roadkill seen: 12+
Nights spent not sleeping in a bed: 2
Hikes: 1
Candy bars eaten: too many